Mykonos before the beach clubs — space, dunes and a real horizon
The north coast is what the south looked like fifty years ago. Panormos is a broad bay of sand and dune with one relaxed beach club and plenty of free space; Agios Sostis, next to it, has no sunbeds, no music and a tiny whitewashed chapel, with a much-loved grill taverna in the trees behind that takes no bookings and serves lunch until it runs out. Further east, Fokos is a long dirt-road drive to a beach with a single taverna and almost nobody on it.
The catch is the Meltemi. These beaches face north into the summer wind, and on a strong day the sand blows and the sea chops. On calm days, and in June and September, they are the best swimming on the island.
There is no bus to speak of and no sea taxi. Come by hire car, scooter or on a jeep tour, bring water and shade, and expect dirt roads for the last stretch.
Beach
Wide, sandy, mostly unorganised. Exposed to the north wind; calm mornings and calm days are the time to come.
Nights
None. Long lunches at the tavernas and a sunset drive home.
Getting around
Car, scooter or guided jeep tour only. Roads to Agios Sostis and Fokos are partly unpaved. Ano Mera is the nearest village for supplies.
Season
In a strong Meltemi (most common in July and August) these beaches can be unpleasant; check the wind forecast the night before.
